NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren will target a more international version of the Polo man in September with the third installment in the Polo scent lineup, Polo Black.
While Polo Black initially will launch in the U.S. exclusively to Bloomingdale’s and in Europe and travel retail markets, it will roll out to Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ 2,200 U.S. department and specialty store doors in October, followed by Asia and Latin America. According to executives, launching Polo Black globally more or less simultaneously is not only a first for the company, it is also important for the positioning of the fragrance.
“[The Polo Black man] is a man who travels a lot, so it’s important to have that impact, to be available all over,” said Edgar Huber, president of the luxury products division for L’Oréal USA.
And while Polo Black is not the first men’s fragrance inspired by the color black to hit the market (others include Black Kenneth Cole and Armani Black Code), Huber said the positioning is a natural extension of the Polo brand. “The fragrance reflects Mr. Lauren’s interpretation of black as a sophisticated lifestyle mood and is a modern extension of the Polo story,” said Huber. “And the timing for Polo Black synergizes with the introduction of Polo Ralph Lauren’s Black Label men’s fashion collection.”
Caroleen Mackin, vice president of global marketing for Ralph Lauren Fragrances, said that, in contrast to other offerings in the Polo lineup, Polo Black is targeted toward more of a “Renaissance man,” and cited a recent observation Lauren made regarding changing attitudes in men’s wear: “Ralph was saying how cool guys are wearing suits now.”
Not only will Polo Black target this more “urban, elegant, hip” demographic, according to Mackin, it also will round out the Polo portfolio, bringing a sophisticated edge to what is often seen as a more traditional, sporty brand. “The original Polo is classic, almost English, while Polo Blue is casual, outdoorsy and inspired by the water,” said Mackin. “Polo Black is modern, urban, elegant and hip.” The target age for Polo Black is 25 to 45.
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The juice, created by Ellen Molner and Pierre Negrin of Givaudan, features top notes of iced mango, Spanish sage, and green effervescent accord; middle notes of silver armoise, lush liquid accord and hedione, and bottom notes of patchouli noir, sandalwood, timberol and tonka bean.
Jennifer Mullarkey, assistant vice president of product development for Ralph Lauren Fragrances, likened each note in the fragrance to a type of music: “We refer to the top note as effervescent rock, the middle note as liquid jazz and the bottom note as soulful R&B,” she said. “[The user] has a lot of passions, but music is a big part of his world.” Mullarkey said the fragrance is “a combination between crisp energy and dark sensuality — as you wear the fragrance, the dark sexiness comes through.”
This “man in black” is embodied by Nacho Figueras, an Argentine polo player with smoldering dark looks. According to L’Oréal execs, Lauren discovered Figueras at a polo match in Bridgehampton, N.Y., and subsequently asked him to be part of his Glamourous fragrance campaign in 2001. Since then, Figueras has appeared in advertising campaigns for both Polo and Black Label. Currently playing for Neil Hirsch’s Blackwatch polo team, Figueras divides his time between New York, Palm Beach, Fla., and Argentina; a perfect fit, said execs, for Polo Black’s international focus.
The print ads will drop in the September issues of men’s and women’s fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines; one features Figueras in a slick Manhattan apartment, surrounded by books, art and modern furniture and holding a trumpet, while another features a simple portrait of Figueras in a dark Ralph Lauren Black Label suit. The TV ads, which will drop in September — and possibly run again around holiday time, according to execs — feature Figueras driving around an urban environment in a vintage Porsche with the Burt Bacharach song, “Anyone Who Had a Heart” playing in the background. Model Gabriella Hearst plays Figueras’ love interest. Both the print and TV ads were shot by photographer Bruce Weber,
Polo Black’s eaux de toilette will retail for $47.50 for a 2.5-oz. bottle and $65 for a 4.2-oz. bottle. In addition, 4.2-oz. sizes of After Shave Splash and After Shave Gel will be available for $45 each, as will a 6.7-oz. Hair & Body Wash for $18.50 and a 2.6-oz. Anti-Perspirant Stick for $16.
At launch, Polo Black will be supported by 20 million to 25 million blow-ins and scented impressions, according to Mackin. While executives would not comment on sales figures, industry sources expect Polo Black to bring in up to $20 million in first-year sales with at least $10 million spent on advertising.
“This will be the biggest men’s launch of the season, and we think it has the potential to be in the top five,” said Jack Wiswall, president of the designer fragrances division of L’Oréal USA. “We have a lot of fragrances in the top 10, so I would like to see it go even higher than the top five. It allows us to take advantage of the Polo heritage, not just in the U.S., but around the world.”