While Coterie is traditionally an apparel show, more accessories designers are planting roots there this September. The reason: They can cater to a more diverse crowd and have the opportunity to exhibit their pieces with ready-to-wear looks.
Contemporary accessories firms such as Rebecca Minkoff and Botkier, as well as high fashion jewelry labels Alexis Bittar and Ted Rossi, see Coterie as an opportunity to meet with a wider range of buyers. Cynthia O’Connor, whose showroom represents multiple accessories firms, makes it a point to show at Coterie each season.
“Since we also have rtw lines in our showroom, it just made more sense,” O’Connor said. “Once we moved there, we attracted edgier designers….We went from $5 million in volume that year to shipping over $50 million last year. So, you can see it paid off. We have mainly clothing, handbags, scarves, belts and costume jewelry, so we work well at Coterie.”
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O’Connor cited color as a major handbag trend for spring, specifically by Kooba, as well as statement jewelry by C.C. Skye and belts by B-low the Belt.
Alexis Bittar said he enjoys showing to clothing stores as the majority of them are the same stores that carry his line. He also finds that his pieces stand out at a clothing-driven show.
“It’s a chance to be seen,” Bittar said. “It’s a different dynamic, since there’s only a handful of jewelry designers.” Monica Botkier, creative director at Botkier, said she has been showing at Coterie for years and her customers expect to see her there. She noted that the “personal touch” she has with her buyers is more important today than ever before.
“Coterie is geared to clothing-only stores, which is where we are most often sold,” Botkier said. “There are fewer and fewer accessory-only stores left.”
Botkier also mentioned the benefit of Coterie’s timing. By the time she gets to the show, she has been showing her collection for several weeks, which gives retailers a final chance to review
their selections.
Firms also benefit from the crowd drawn to New York for spring fashion and market weeks.
“It’s always an invigorating time to showcase your brand to the fashion community,” said Ted Rossi, who pointed to embossed studded wrap bracelets and bright bangles as trends for spring. Handbag designer Rebecca Minkoff said her studded pieces are key items for spring as well as the “pretty tough” look, which she describes as rock ’n’ roll with a softer edge.
“What’s nice about Coterie is that I get to see my international customers and also attract retailers that buy handbags and clothing,” she said. Steve Dumain, co-creative director at accessories firm Be&D concurred, adding that he is able to “reach a customer that doesn’t have the travel or preparation time to do complete research and attends Coterie to cover a large part of their needs.” He sees the line’s mismatch-braid flat sandal as a top seller for spring, as well as mini bags with long straps.
Other trends expected to gain traction at Coterie include studs, hardware and bright colors by Treeje handbags, as well as bucket bags, hobo shapes, wristlet and clutches by Alexis Hudson. Carlos Falchi noted buffed python in soft washed colors such as mint green and light blue was key. “Our spring 2010 collection incorporates pieces that will make a woman feel beautiful and luxurious,” said Rachelle Copeland, owner and designer at Alexis Hudson. “There is also a trend toward lightweight, highly functional bags.”
Other key jewelry items for spring are feminine and floral pieces by Citrine by the Stones as well as edgier basics. The line created pieces finished in antique gold or brass gold plating for a vintage or understated aesthetic.
Eyewear firm Eyebobs said colorful frames would be a big trend at Coterie.
“We relate better to the fashion buyer who wants to make multiple sales of an accessory,” said Julie Allinson, Eyebobs founder and president, noting shoppers often “buy several pairs of Eyebobs to match [different] outfits.”