“With the world getting upside down and so much craziness with everything going on, I really wanted to design a collection that felt grounded and had something that felt real,” Jonathan Simkhai said backstage, ahead of his fall runway show. For Simkhai, this meant homing in on the construction of classics with modern twists. For instance, adding blown-up leather belts atop tailored garb, reworking sharp silhouettes from the inside-out à la exposed darts on a partially pin-striped topcoat, and deconstructing the quintessential white tank top (some coated in metallic silver, also seen throughout denim styles).
“Toughness” was a key word for Simkhai this season. “Obviously, I love femininity, but also that juxtaposition [of masculine versus feminine] — I’ve played in this space sometimes more than others,” he said, focusing on the latter with an amped-up assortment of harder leather layers (including a strong selection of chunky boots). The idea brought a new attitude to the brand, and looked best when mixed with softer silhouettes (i.e., debut Wolford collaborative monogram bodywear, or a mixed-rib and quilted jumper).
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He contrasted the idea with a series of pretty fluid frocks with liquid-like crystal prints created in collaboration with visual artist George Harvey (whom Simkhai first worked with for spring). The idea resulted in delicate metallic-yarn infused knit dresses and embroidered lace gowns (a new riff on the designer’s familial lace heritage), said to mimic the veins of the stones with the idea of “the wearer embodying the powers of the crystal.”
The ideas wove together with Simkhai’s closing crystalized looks (as seen on a sheer body-hugging gown and Emily Ratakowski’s sharp blazer dress) boasting his new Simkhai “S” logo.
“After this time, I really wanted to laser in and keep things really focused, concise and very direct,” the designer said of his rebrand to “Simkhai.” “Obviously celebrating craftsmanship, but also making it feel stronger in our efforts to expand globally.”