From Chanel in Lake Como to Gucci in Florence and Dior in the Eternal City, cinematic Italian style is coming into focus for resort 2026. While Silvia Tcherassi may not have hopped on the bandwagon with a roaming show like those brands, she still got into the trend, zeroing in on Naples, as seen through the lens of director Paolo Sorrentino.
“The mood of his films, they’re so chic, so elegant,” the Colombian designer said during a collection preview. A Naples native, Sorrentino set two recent film projects in the southern port city: 2021’s Oscar-nominated autobiographical drama “The Hand of God,” and last year’s “Parthenope,” a heady coming-of-age drama about an enchanting Neapolitan girl on a quest for romance.
Named for the mythical Greek siren who washed up on Naples’ shore, Parthenope would have no trouble at all luring in suitors with Tcherassi’s regal caftans and cutout dresses, which exuded the spirit of La Dolce Vita glamor. Texture-play added to the sensual feeling with sporty track jackets and shirts in bubbled leather and silk pajamas rinsed repeatedly for a velvety hand.
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Sorrentino’s color mood was of particular interest to Tcherassi, who referenced scenes in Parthenope shot over the Gulf of Naples at what she called the “golden hour.” Hence marine blues offset by warm terracotta with bold flashes of pink and red. The latter two appeared as florals, which were abstracted to the point they actually resembled lava flowing from Mount Vesuvius in nearby Pompeii.
Thinking about natural organic forms, Tcherassi picked up on the spiral shape of nautilus shells, not only for resin belts, but also for bias hems on a couple of kicky fluted dresses. She herself selected one with bishop sleeves and a plunging V-neckline for the cocktail soiree fêting her new line at SoHo’s Nino Mier gallery.
Surrounded by circular wood paintings by contemporary artist Otis Jones, the designer paired it with the latest addition to her growing handbag business: Eugene, a petite bucket covered in leather fringe with a drawstring compartment made from the same fabric as Italian menswear ties. “It gives movement,” Tcherassi said, swaying the bag back and forth, “but it’s like a piece of sculpture. Fashion and film, it’s art for me.”