The collection had a few things to celebrate as Pigalle founder Stéphane Ashpool won the ANDAM prize last July and this fall outing marked his 10th collection. He did so with an upscale show, titled “Eros,” paraded on his habitual cast that mixed models, musicians and friends with the aim of exploring and celebrating the feminine part in all men. There was a softness in both the collection and presentation as the models walked down the scene of a theater to music of a live harp and piano duet. Keeping the shapes mostly classic, the designer, who has never been shy about experimenting with color, worked this time with a spectrum of soft pastels and deep jewel tones more familiar to women’s lingerie territory than urban streetwear. He interpreted his usual shapes of bombers, varsity jackets, track pants and shearling coats in a palette of lilac, pale blue, soft pink, rosy beige, corn flower blue, raspberry and bright turquoise. Some of the embellishments were developed in some of the best couture ateliers in Paris, like a colorful crest on a blouson embroidered with feathers, the Pigalle logo at the back of coats and jackets embroidered from multicolored threads and a silky fabric hand-pleated for track pants.
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It was sometimes difficult to take it all in, but the Pigalle man is fiercely assuming a new look that, with his boxy cropped jackets worn with jogging-style pants, gave him the hint of Fifties Parisian allure.