Despite the well-documented risks associated with potassium permanganate, harsh bleaching agents, and pumice stones, many denim manufacturers still depend on these traditional methods to achieve the coveted worn-in aesthetic. Turkish garment manufacturer Rimaks is aiming to shift the industry mindset with Nova—a new, drop-in alternative designed to replace these hazardous practices without compromising on style.
The four-step finishing platform utilizes laser abrasion, ozone-enhanced bleaching, eco-stoning and advanced eco-chemistry to create brilliant, high-contrast indigo finishes with significantly reduced and measurable environmental impact.
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Garments made with Nova achieved green EIM scores ranging from 21-26. The individual savings of a five-pocket jean made with 11 oz. fabric is 34 percent less energy, 46 percent less water and 53 percent less chemicals. Additionally, productivity increased 15 percent from 130 to 150 jeans per load.
However, the benefits are vast, according to Meir Barbut, a board member at Rimaks. By replacing manual scraping with laser boosted dry processing, brands can achieve more consistent and natural effects. Eco-stones made from recycled materials require less water and energy than pumice and are suitable for high-capacity batch processing. Ozone technology, used in tandem with eco-chemicals, replace acid-based bleaches and custom eco spray finishing eliminates potassium permanganate.
Rimaks will present a collection of garments made with Nova using exclusive fabrics from its long-time partner DNM Denim at Kingpins New York. The fabrics are primarily made with natural fibers like cotton, Tencel and modal.
The manufacturer has been relatively “under the radar” in the U.S. The company, which launched in 1980, has mainly concentrated its business on the Scandinavian market where brands tend to align with Rimak’s eco mindset.
However, Barbut said the company is taking baby steps into the U.S. market and Nova may be the perfect story to help connect with conscious brands. The collaboration is expected to draw interest from leading U.S. and global denim brands looking to push toward next-generation manufacturing. Madewell, Everlane, L`Agence, Paige, Favorite Daughter and Good American are among the companies Rimaks is targeting.
Sustainable manufacturing has come a long way. Barbut recalled the days when eco finishing and washing resulted in jeans that were dull and flat. Understandably, he said clients were disinterested in having sustainably produced products. That’s no longer the case, thanks to innovations like Nova, which deliver impressive results that rival those of their less sustainable counterparts.
“Buyers should be ready to invest more in sustainably made collections. I think the industry is ready to make a next step in this area,” he said.
