Milan Fashion Week revealed a wide variety directions for Spring/Summer 2026 denim.
Dario Vitale’s debut as Versace’s creative director revealed a side of the Italian label that hasn’t been seen since the ’80s. His references to Versace Jeans Couture, nostalgic prints and Miami culture broke away from the glam leather and gold that has dominated recent collections. Instead, leather was applied as a detail, used as panels and patchwork on denim shorts and colorful jeans.
After staging shows with giant balloons and heaps of recycled denim, Diesel took an unconventional way to present its Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Models were encased in transparent “egg-shaped vessels” places in various areas in Milan.
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Distressed denim and satin denim—developed by Diesel using recycled polyester—were among the highlights. The satin fabrics were dyed vibrant colors and used for pieces like biker vests, dresses and apron tops. Diesel also showed denim bleached from the inside out, creating an x-ray effect on the garment.
Sheen was a key element to Pierre Louis Mascia’s collection, which showed trompe-l’oeil print denim on silk. The technique was used across long shorts and pants with triple waistbands.
Fun flourishes were seen across collections. Ermanno Scervino paired denim with powder blue denim with matching tulle and lace corset tops. Garments like shackets and wide-leg jeans were fluid and drapey. Elisabetta Franchi’s use of chiffon added transparency and delicacy to distressed jeans and a denim trench. Blumarine chose beading and Giuseppe di Morabito chose lace to dress up their denim pieces.
Pieced garments with color contrasting washes and ghost pockets added depth to Calcaterra Milano’s denim styles. Ferrari showed a deconstructed skirt with a tinted black wash. The grungy wash was also applied to baggy cargo jeans, a moto jacket and more.
Jean fits were overwhelming relaxed and loose. Slouchy jeans with muted prints told Etro’s boho story for the season. Brunello Cucinelli chose a palazzo-style fit for the season. Luisa Spagnoli paired wide-leg silhouettes with low-rises. The roomy fits carried into shorts as seen on Dhruv Kapoor’s runway. Denim jackets with wide sleeves were also prominent in collections by Sportmax and Blaze Milano.
