Innovation is challenging, and it requires a deep sense of responsibility. As Blathnaid Geoghegan, Pangaia’s senior product material manager, explained at Bluezone last month, bringing something to market isn’t just about the idea; it’s about ensuring you’re doing it right and delivering the best possible product. “It’s really about bringing problem-solving innovations and growth to premium lifestyle apparel,” she said. “We’re truly focused on solving environmental issues within the industry.”
As senior product material manager, Geoghegan leads early-stage innovations, guiding materials and products from concept to finished commercial items. To achieve this, the U.K.-based material science company is committed to tackling the environmental impact of traditional fibers and textiles. Pangaia is actively exploring a variety of bio-based, regenerative, and recycled materials, discovered through trade show scouting or proactive outreach to innovative companies when gaps or opportunities arise.
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“Once we have clarity of why that innovation and why we want to justify working on this innovation, then we start doing screen testing and trying to really understand the performance of the innovation, and also the environmental impact of the innovation,” she said. “And then we like look to see if we need support supply chains. We may need a new manufacturer or a new mill to work with to achieve this,” Geoghegan said. “There’s lots of troubleshooting. You can’t fear failing.”
Innovation isn’t always straightforward. Though Pangaia stepped into jeans in 2021 with nettle denim, a product the brand developed with Candiani Denim and for Levi’s designer Jonathan Cheung, it exited the category to focus on ones that it could have a greater impact like outdoor and activewear.
Other times an innovation may meet one set of criteria but fall short on another. Geoghegan recalls a time when Pangaia introduced a bio-based alternative to synthetic fibers for activewear, which faced its own set of challenges. The alternative earned high marks for its minimal environmental impact, but it lacked the moisture-wicking performance needed for activewear.
“There’s always room for improvement…even when we get it out to market, when it is commercial. I think there’s capacity for further improvements. That’s the nature of innovation space,” she said, adding that companies shouldn’t shy away from being transparent with consumers and taking them on the journey. “You can engage with them.”
Since launching in 2018 with a collection of T-shirts, hoodies, track pants and puffer jackets made with bio-based and post-consumer recycled materials and plastic bottles, Pangaia has witnessed the fashion industry’s growth in sustainability. The supply chain engages with the brand more, Geoghegan said, including commercial manufacturers that can have a big impact with the large quantities they produce.
“Maybe they recognize that this is an important part of their story. You can see that a lot of them are engaging in environmental solutions and working toward being more sustainable,” she said. “The supply chain is stepping up—you don’t necessarily see it but there’s a lot of work being done within areas that we don’t give recognition. There are manufacturers that are engaging in it and really care.”
Sustainable legislation is also prodding companies toward this direction. Despite new challenges to overcome, Geoghegan said the government’s involvement is necessary for the industry. “We need that regulation to force us to do it,” she said. “Sometimes you just need a deadline.”
Pangaia’s innovation strategy has evolved significantly. In the first few years, the company’s pursuit was to be first to market. Though it was exciting engaging with customers with brand-new products, Geoghegan their impact was insufficient. “We needed to recognize that it’s more valuable and more sincere, I guess, to look at and to work more to scale and to build scalable products and materials,” she said.
Now under the majority ownership of Abu Dhabi’s Royal Group, the company is navigating the balance between being an industry trailblazer and a material science leader, driving actionable and measurable change. “It’s very exciting to be at that early stage of innovation, but it’s been way more important to get it out into the commercial [market]. We need next-gen materials, and we need them coming through so that we are in a space that we can support the industry to improve… Innovators need support.”
