There were no shortages of memorable denim statements on the men’s Fall/Winter 2024 runway.
In Paris, Louis Vuitton’s men’s creative director Pharrell Williams extended the lifespan of the ongoing Western trend by journeying into the American West for inspiration. Denim was “iced with pearl-and-sequin floral embroideries” and printed with Western floral motifs. Chaps were finished with leather fringe and studs. Metal tips adorned the collars of denim shirts, while bootcut jeans featured a sharp center crease.
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Dsquared2 played with dualities: raw and refined, polished and gritty. That translated to denim with mixed patchwork, stud-covered jean shorts, skinny cargo jeans and jeans covered in silver sequins. Tinted washes created a dirty, unearthed effect on jeans while white paint splatter and high-low contrasts maintained the brand’s signature codes.
Purple overdyed jackets, shirts and pants were part of Isabel Marant’s collection as well as classic blue jorts. Simon Cracker, Louis Vuitton and Federico Cina also showed jean shorts of various lengths. Utility continued to be a theme that designers shaped and molded to their liking. Dhurv Kapoor showed flood-length cargo jeans that could zip off and be worn as shorts.
Textured jeans and jackets were Taakk’s main story for the season. Shredded seams and scratched surfaces mimicked the look of worn-down carpeting. Sankuanz added colorful graffiti and psychedelic prints to lightwash jeans. Kidsuper laser printed images of Brazilian soccer legend Ronaldinho (who walked in the show) onto jeans.
While fits were generally loose and fluid, designers focused on elevating washes out of their Y2K cycle and incorporated more tailoring details to sharpen the look of denim.
Denim suiting was prominent in collections by Feng Chen Wang, Wooyoungmi and Dior. The latter re-introduced the safari jacket in mid-tone indigo denim, which popped against the thick white contrasting thread that framed the pockets and self-belt.
A cummerbund jean from System added clean lines to an otherwise baggy fit jean. Dries Van Noten showed a polished denim trench coat and Loewe presented a hybrid of a traditional pussy-bow blouse and denim button-down shirt.
