The global denim industry stands out for its commitment to producing high-quality, durable fabrics, followed by an even greater investment to make it look worn, faded and even damaged before it lands in stores.
Lab Denim, a bioscience and digital technology company, is challenging this traditional approach by eliminating the need for these contradictory and resource-intensive processes. Through its patented fabric technology and innovative post-weave colorization, Lab Denim is able to preserve the authentic look, feel, and durability of conventional denim while drastically reducing environmental impact.
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Dustin White, Lab Denim CEO, explains the simplified process behind the company’s breakthrough technology. Developed in Switzerland, Lab Denim utilizes a digital machine powered by proprietary software and a unique indigo replacement developed specifically for denim. A roll of white twill (or any non-synthetic white fabric) is fed into the machine, which uses Lab Denim’s eco-friendly inks and bio color enhancers to colorize the fabric.
The result is indigo-free denim that eliminates the need for water, harmful chemicals, and the labor-intensive treatments typically used in denim production. This new fabric behaves just like traditional indigo denim—it will age, fade, and gain character with wear—but without the environmental toll.
“Zero indigo, zero petrochemicals, zero water, and no finishing, meaning no heat, lasers, bleaches—none of that. It’s all done through one pass,” White said. “When the fabric comes out the machine, you can cut and sew.”
Lab Denim’s fabrics are fully compatible with existing processes like laser treatments and enzyme washes, though White points out the strain these methods place on resources and the potential harm they cause to fabric integrity. “You want to sell a strong product to the customer, but you’re using bleaches, heat and fire to make it look a certain way,” he said. “Why do that when you can do it all in one shot?”
Lab Denim reports that its all-in-one process achieves a 90 percent reduction in water usage, alongside significant supply chain benefits. The technology minimizes deadstock, reduces inventory needs, and shortens lead times. White also notes how the technology unlocks greater creative freedom for designers, as there’s no longer any cost associated with finishing treatments.
The technology is tailored for cut-and-sew manufacturers and fabric mills, and Lab Denim offers sample machines to design labs, enabling companies to produce on-demand samples. This not only slashes carbon emissions and waste but also accelerates time-to-market.
The response to Lab Denim’s innovation has been overwhelmingly positive. “Jaws on the ground” is how White describes the industry’s reaction. The company is already collaborating with several brands on projects including one large global brand.
“We’re excited about it because the goal is to make the largest impact we can. So, we’re trying to start as high to move the environmental needle as fast as possible,” White said.
