Denim Tears’ next chapter is denim.
On Friday, streetwear brand founded by cultural provocateur Tremaine Emory, released its first proprietary denim collection.
The launch features two core unisex silhouettes—straight and baggy—and a Trucker jacket in heavyweight 14 oz. denim Japanese selvedge. The collection is cut, sewn and washed by Saitex USA, the state-of-the-art manufacturing and laundry facility in Vernon, Calif. The collection retails for $210-$310.
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Having spent years shaping ideas through influential collaborations, most notably his ongoing work with Levi’s since 2020, Emory’s move into creating his own fits and fabrics felt like the inevitable next step in his storytelling-centered design journey.
His previous collections with Levi’s focused on Black history and identity, including the first collection which used a now iconic cotton wreath motif to tell the story of U.S. cotton and its legacy intertwined with slavery. Other collections have shared the stories of Black biker culture and the traditions of Mardi Gras Indians in New Orleans.
“We learned so much from collaborating with one of the greatest brands in the world for over six years,” Emory said about Denim Tears’ work with Levi’s.
Emory aims to keep the narrative alive with Denim Tears’ denim range.
“Denim was originally called ‘Negro cloth’ worn by slaves in the West Indies and the Southern and Northern colonies in America,” Emory told SJ Denim. “Over time, these durable fabrics became the denim we know now. The foundation of American fashion [comes] from the cloth worn by slaves and then free African Americans during the antebellum era.”
Despite it being Denim Tears’ first full-fledge denim collection, Emory said denim has been “a staple of the brand since the beginning.” Looking forward, he said his plan for the denim range is “to continue to make quality products from a genuine place.”
The brand will expand its core denim range and introduce seasonal styles. Emory said denim for kids will launch next season.
