There are numerous factors that can cause companies across industries to pull back from sustainability efforts. In the denim supply chain, the situation is particularly challenging. Brands and retailers are demanding lower prices, while expecting mills and suppliers to shoulder the cost of sustainable investments. At the same time, wages are rising, sales are declining, and many companies are being forced to downsize or consolidate. All the while, customers continue to expect more for less.
On top of these external pressures, companies in parts of the world are feeling growing pains.
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“Like any growing industry, Pakistan’s textile sector faces its share of complexities. From rising energy costs to limited renewable infrastructure and shifting policies, the path isn’t always smooth. Access to sustainable cotton can also be a hurdle. And while we’re investing in people, building skills in a diverse workforce takes consistent effort,” said Salima Hemani, AGI Denim’s head of sustainability. “But Pakistan is also a place of resilience and possibility. We believe in its potential, and in our teams. Every challenge is an opportunity to learn, adapt and move forward, with purpose.”
Sundus Sohail, Soorty’s sustainability manager, said a key challenge in maintaining sustainable goals has been balancing capital expenditures for sustainability with short-term operational cost pressures.
“Technology adoption, regulatory unpredictability, and the need for employee training across departments also pose hurdles. However, internal alignment is improving, and a growing understanding of long-term value is helping sustain momentum,” she said.
Despite the challenges, companies in the denim supply chain are resistant to dial back their sustainable investments and goals for 2030. Rather, they are being more strategic and intentional about where they invest.
A new reporting process helps Tonello stay focused and accountable and ensures that the company invests where the impact is real, relevant, and trackable. “We’re fully aware of the economic pressure companies are facing today. But for us, sustainability is part of our DNA: a long-term commitment, not a trend. If anything, this context reinforces the importance of making decisions based on measurable environmental and economic value,” said Alberto Lucchin, Tonello marketing and sustainability manager.
One example is the construction of Tonello’s new headquarters, currently underway, which follows strict sustainability and energy-efficiency standards. “It’s a clear signal that we are not slowing down but instead building the next chapter of Tonello with a forward-looking and responsible mindset,” he said.
“There’s no denying that we’re operating in a tough economic climate. But at AGI Denim, we don’t see sustainability as a cost; it’s a core part of our business strategy. As a B Corp and LEED-certified company, responsibility is hardwired into how we operate,” Hemani said.
While some companies view sustainability as a burden in challenging times, others see it as an opportunity for innovation and resilience. Industry leaders emphasize that with the right approach, sustainability can drive both environmental and economic value.
“My advice would be to focus on integration and efficiency,” said Barbara Oswald, Bluesign COO. “Sustainability doesn’t have to be expensive; it should be strategic. Use data to identify where your biggest environmental impacts are and target those areas first. Leverage certifications and systems like Bluesign to avoid duplication and reduce compliance costs. And most importantly, communicate transparently with your stakeholders. Consumers and partners appreciate honesty and progress, even if it’s incremental.”
The following takes a closer look at how companies across the denim supply chain are progressing toward their 2030 sustainability goals—and the challenges and strategies shaping their journey.
Climate & Energy
Isko
Goal: Reduce Scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions 38 percent by 2029, compared to the 2021 baseline.
Status: “We’ve mapped out a clear decarbonization roadmap and are already cutting emissions by at least 4.2 percent annually. One of our biggest steps was phasing out coal in 2023. We’re also investing in renewable energy—with a total of 14 MW in rooftop solar capacity planned by 2029. So far, 12.5 MW of that is already installed across several phases. On top of that, we’re improving energy efficiency across the board by upgrading machinery and using ISO 50001 and TPM frameworks,” said Utku Varol, Isko’s sustainability manager.
Artistic Milliners
Goal: Achieve a 42 percent absolute reduction in Scope 1 and 2 emissions.
Status: “We are firmly on track to meet our 2030 goals,” said Baber Sultan, Artistic Milliners director of product development and research. “We have made substantial strides by investing over $100 million in clean energy. Today, we have 100 MW of operational wind power and 14 MW of rooftop solar across our facilities. Our targets have been officially validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), and we are expanding our portfolio with new solar and biomass projects currently in progress.”
Naveena Denim Mills
Goal: Reduce Scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions 45 percent, compared to the 2022 baseline.
Status: “We’ve mapped our emissions baseline and are in the process of setting science-based targets, which will be submitted to the Science-Based Targets initiative. Our decarbonization strategy includes energy efficiency improvements, transition to cleaner fuels, and increased renewable energy procurement. We’re on track with planning, though implementation timelines depend on regulatory and technical factors,” said Sundus Sohail, Naveena Denim Mills sustainability manager
Sapphire Finishing Mills Ltd.
Goal: Reduce Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 50.4 percent and Scope 3 emissions by 30 percent by 2032.
Status: “By 2024, we had already reduced Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 78 percent. This was achieved through a complete transition from coal to 100 percent biomass-based cogeneration (CHP) and the addition of solar power across our facilities,” said Raffay Bin Rauf, Sapphire Finishing Mills Ltd.’s sustainability head.
Soorty
Goal: Reduce Scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions by 54.6 percent by 2033 and 90 percent by 2050.
Status: “We’re on track to meet near-term targets through significant investments in energy transition, including 11.2 MW of on-site solar (scaling to 15 MW by 2027), 5 MW of on-site wind, 50 MW of off-site wind, and 85 percent thermal transition to biomass boilers,” said Eda Dikmen, Soorty’s senior marketing and communication manager.
Rudolf
Goal: Reduce Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 50 percent.
Status: “Since 2023, our headquarters has been operating a 100 kWp photovoltaic system, with further renewable energy potential under evaluation. Additionally, we have begun transitioning our vehicle fleet to electric and reducing natural gas consumption in production. The headquarter already sources 100% green electricity,” said Alberto DeConti, head of Rudolf fashion division.
Chemicals
Naveena Denim Limited
Goal: Achieve 95 percent ZDHC level 3 chemical Conformance by 2027.
Status: “We are currently at 85 percent of achieving our target of ZDHC Level 3,” said Umair Masoon, NDL director. “Some of process chemicals are not yet available in ZDHC Level 3-approved category. While we’ve made significant progress. ZDHC Level 3 compliant chemicals are often priced higher, and their limited local availability results in longer lead times and increased procurement complexity. This affects both cost-efficiency and process continuity. In some cases, replacing a non-compliant chemical with a Level 3 alternative impacts performance or requires process re-optimization, which involves time, trials, and risk of quality deviation.”
Materials
Prosperity Textiles
Goal: Increase sustainable fiber usage by over 90 percent.
Status: “Currently at 75 percent bulk production having contained sustainable fibers. [We are] on track but need to accelerate adoption especially in cost-sensitive segments,” said Stafford Lau, director of Prosperity Textiles.
Bossa
Goal: Increase recycled fiber usage so 70 percent is GRS certified.
Status: “As of today, approximately one-third of our production is GRS certified. We aim to double this number. To achieve this, we are increasing the number of certified articles in our collection,” said V. Besim Özek, Bossa’s strategy and business development director.
Tat-Fung
Goal: Increase the use of sustainable materials to 75 percent by 2030.
Status: “Currently 50 percent of our fabrics are made from recycled cotton, recycled polyester, organic cotton, and other eco-friendly fibers,” said Tim Huesemann, Tat-Fung sales director.
Cone Denim
Goal: Transition to 100 percent preferred and low-climate-impact fibers.
Status: “By sourcing responsible fibers such as cotton, verified by U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, Better Cotton and certified recycled cotton, we have achieved 84 percent certified sustainable cotton in our denim. Combined with increased usage of hemp, Tencel, Ciclo, and Repreve, we are producing unique and innovative denim that benefits the earth and our communities,” said Jimmy Summers, Cone Denim’s chief sustainability officer.
Water
AGI Denim
Goal: Limit freshwater to 30 percent of total water consumption.
Status: “Water is scarce, especially in a country like Pakistan, where extreme water stress is a reality. In an industry known for high water use, we’re changing the narrative. Our Double Zero water recycling system, certified by SGS, is a major milestone. We’re also investing in technologies that help reduce water use, such as low liquor ratio machines, more efficient recipes, and recycling technologies to reduce our footprint and stay aligned with our targets,” said Salima Hemani, AGI Denim’s head of sustainability.
This article was published in SJ Denim’s fall issue. Click here to read more.
