Denim mills are gearing up to unveil fresh technologies, creative partnerships, and standout capsule collections at Kingpins Amsterdam. Set to take place at SugarCity on Oct. 15–16, the show continues to serve as a launchpad for innovation and inspiration in the denim industry.
Here’s a preview of what exhibitors are bringing to the table.
Lenzing will showcase denim fabrics made with Tencel lyocell HV100, an innovative new fiber developed in response to growing demand for both natural aesthetics and environmentally responsible production.
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Engineered with controlled variation in staple fiber lengths, HV100 introduces subtle, organic-looking irregularities into the fabric that mimic the visual and tactile appeal of natural fibers like cotton. The result is denim with a truly authentic look and feel. AGI Denim, Orta and Advance are among the global mills presenting fabrics made with the fiber.
“With Tencel lyocell HV100, we’re pushing denim design further—achieving bright blue indigo wash-downs without off-shades, a matte authentic look, and that natural softness we’ve always aimed for,” said Tuncay Kılıçkan, Lenzing’s head of global business development, denim.
Hyosung TNC, the maker of Creora Spandex and Regen brands, will present a customized range of denim textile solutions at Kingpins Amsterdam, including solutions that feature new Regen BIO + and Regen BIO Max Spandex both made with a higher amount of renewable resource content.
The company’s denim team will also inform attendees on the transition of the fiber’s feedstock from corn to sugarcane, which enables lower carbon emissions without sacrificing performance.
Siddiqsons will showcase collaborations with Smart Linen, Circulose, EcoVero, Marmara Hemp and Poly Clear—fiber partners who share the Pakistani mill’s vision of sustainable innovation.
“Together, these collaborations expand the scope of eco-responsible textiles, from bio-based and recycled fibers to advanced low-impact dyeing and finishing technologies. This collective effort positions denim as both heritage-rooted and future-forward, pushing boundaries toward a truly sustainable tomorrow,” said Abbas Jan, Siddiqsons director of sales and marketing.
Turkish mill Maritaş will share updates on its local regenerative cotton project in the Harran Plain, including academic findings and scientific data.
The success of the project has led the mill to launch a new project this year to produce natural indigo locally. Traditionally sourced from regions like India and China, Fatih Kesim, Maritaş general manager, said natural indigo is now being grown in Turkey for the first time with two different Indigofera species in Antalya, where the Mediterranean climate provides the ideal conditions.
“Our project holds the distinction of being the first TÜBİTAK-supported local indigo initiative, and its scientific research will be conducted in collaboration with Akdeniz University,” he said.
Isko will present new developments from Isko Luxury by PG, a collaboration that pushes denim into the luxury space by combining advanced fabric innovation with refined design values.
Naveena Denim Mills will unveil Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing certified by BluWin, a collaboration with textile dye supplier DyStar. Compared to traditional indigo dyeing, the process consumes 83 percent less water and 32 percent less energy and reduces CO₂ emissions and steam usage. “It’s proof that you can protect the planet without compromising on quality,” Berke Aydemir, Naveena’s senior general manager of R&D and technical sales, said about the collaboration.
Cone Denim’s fabrics will be part of Sake III project, an ongoing graphic arts project led by Tonello and artists Sadia Rafique and Matt Duckett. The collection combines denim with laser, hand-painting, marbling, photography and more.
Artistic Milliners’ focus for this season is on internal innovations that empower its brand partners. The mill will debut its Pixelloom digital printing technology, a platform that facilitates a new level of collaboration, allowing Artistic Milliners to co-create truly customized products with brands.
Italian chemical firm Soko will debut “Fluid Luxe – Crafted in a Bubble of Gel,’ a collection made with sustainable denim manufacturer Columbia/M&J. The garments utilizes Soko’s Hydrogel technology, a process that transforms water into gel, altering how fabrics and chemical agents interact in the wash.
The all-in-one solution contains all the ingredients needed to complete a full washing cycle in a single bath, resulting in a less water consumption.
Vicunha will present “Ancestral Future,” a creative platform that celebrates Latin American identity through exclusive collaborations with visionary designers. “This initiative brings together ancestral wisdom and contemporary fashion, transforming denim into a canvas for storytelling and cultural expression,” said Kürşad Çakılcıoğlu, product development and sales manager for Vicunha in Europe.
The project features work by Lindebergue Fernandes from Brazil and Carolina Ronderos, Ana Torres, Patricia Mejía, Jorge Orozco and Alejandro Crocker from Colombia. Vicunha’s fabrics like Pietro Regen as well as textile waste is used throughout.
US Denim Mills is partnering with the House of Denim Foundation to present, “Women Weave the Future: From heritage to horizon.” The capsule is the mill’s third showcasing fabrics dyed with natural indigo.
Soorty is revisiting the past and future. The Pakistani mill will debut “Heroes of the Past and Future” in collaboration with denim expert Miles Johnson.
Described as a “long-term passion project,” the capsule is the culmination of studying the history of four occupations—fishers, loggers, miners and cowboys—and why they wore what they did in the past and how the uniform has evolved. “This means extensive research, studying vintage archives, sometimes old marketplaces, or libraries to understand the social and functional underlayer of the clothing culture. Every detail, from pocket placement to seam reinforcement, has a purpose, and finding out about them has been amazing,” said Eda Dikmen, Soorty’s senior marketing and communications manager.
For the collection, Johnson collaborated with Soorty to align the mill’s fabrics with the durable, structured design of garments for each occupation.
