ESG Outlook is Sourcing Journal’s discussion series with industry executives to get their take on their company’s latest environmental, social and governance initiatives and their own personal efforts toward sustainability. Here, Bethany Meuleners, apparel and textile design and development lead for 3D printing system Variloom, disusses partnering with brands to solve material challenges and unlock faster, cleaner, more responsive production for the future of apparel.
Name: Bethany Meuleners
Title: Apparel and Textile Design & Development Lead
Company: Variloom
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Variloom, a Palo Alto-based technology company, is helping the fashion industry reduce production waste, minimize excess inventory and reliance on offshore manufacturing through the creation of its first two innovations—3D printing and a recyclable, customizable material.
Variloom’s on-demand and on-site 3D print-to-shape fabrication system, for how soft goods and apparel are made, gives brands and suppliers the ability to design and produce customizable, recyclable fabrics in days instead of months, all while bringing the manufacturing closer to the consumer. The system is capable of printing across a range of sizes from small components to large-format fabrics, enabling bespoke creations and custom-designed details for everything from shirts and pants to handbags and shoes, all while integrating seamlessly into existing supply chains.
The company’s patent-pending soft material, developed specially for its 3D printing system, is made with biobased thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and a proprietary blend of natural additives and fibers from farming and textile waste. It delivers softness, stretch and adaptable performance, with formulas tailored for specific needs like moisture-wicking, odor management and temperature regulation. At the end of a product’s life, goods made with Variloom material filament can be mechanically recycled up to three times without losing material integrity, furthering the brand’s mission to advance circularity in fashion.
Named a 2024 ISPO Award winner for its collaboration on the Rip Curl Mirage3DP Boardshort, Variloom is partnering with leading brands to solve material challenges and unlock faster, cleaner and more responsive production for the future of apparel.
What do you consider your company’s best ESG-related achievement over the last 5 years?
There’s a huge waste issue in the fashion industry. According to Global Fashion Agenda, 92 million tons of textile waste is produced every year from. Imagine if there were a way to capture and reduce that waste—both during the cycle as well as at the end of life? At Variloom, that is exactly what we are working to achieve and we are proud of what we’ve accomplished in such a short period of time. Our approach reduces waste, shortens lead times and removes the need for large inventory positions, while also supporting sustainable, customizable production closer to the consumer.
The on-demand, print-to-shape process ensures that only what is needed is produced, cutting down on excess manufacturing waste. And at the end of a product’s life, our materials can be recycled, keeping them out of landfills.
What is your company’s latest ESG-related initiative?
As part of our material formulations, we are committed to continually improving our source materials. This includes increasing the share of biobased TPU in our base formulation to reduce reliance on fossil fuel inputs. We are also incorporating waste and by-products from various industries, including fashion and farming, while ensuring the highest standards of quality and performance.
What is the biggest misconception consumers have about sustainability in fashion/accessories? How does your company message correct information to the public?
Many people assume that a product labeled with the use of a “sustainable material” is inherently a more responsible choice. In reality, true sustainability goes far beyond the material itself. It begins at the design stage, by considering durability, understanding consumer needs so the product is genuinely valued and used, and making intentional choices about where and how it is produced. It continues throughout the supply chain, from manufacturing and distribution to how the product reaches the consumer, and ultimately, how it is handled at the end of its life.
Marketing claims about sustainable materials only tell part of the story. At Variloom, our goal is to demonstrate how responsible production and materials can be strengthened at every stage of the process, while still creating exceptional products
As consumers become more aware of worker conditions and how clothing is produced, how can the industry best spread the word on progress?
Lean into transparency. Change in the industry can take many forms and is often gradual, but what matters most is honesty. Companies should be clear about where they stand today, the actions they are taking, and the steps they still need to take. This openness builds trust and helps consumers understand that progress is an ongoing journey rather than a finished destination.
What do you consider to be the apparel industry’s biggest missed opportunity related to securing meaningful change?
The industry’s biggest missed opportunity lies in addressing waste. A large share of waste happens on the consumer side, often because people do not know what to do with a product at the end of its life. There is an opportunity to design products and create systems that make end-of-life solutions approachable and accessible for consumers.
Equally important is the waste generated during production. The industry has the chance to capture and reuse that waste, but even more importantly, to reduce it from the start. Embracing innovations that enable producing only what is needed and minimizing material loss is essential for driving meaningful change. This is why at Variloom, we’re focusing on tackling the waste issue throughout our system from raw inputs to end-of-life.
What is your personal philosophy on shopping and caring for your clothes?
I’ve been focusing on buying less and being more intentional with what I do choose to purchase. For me, that often means a mix of secondhand and new, choosing local when I can. Most of what I buy are quality staples with a few statement pieces.
I also believe that how you care for your clothing is just as important to sustainability as what you purchase. If you care for your clothing correctly, they will last longer and be more appealing if you do decide to pass them on. When I part with something, I take the time (something I learned from my mother) to find it a good home. I also make an effort when products do get damaged to either repair or even repurpose that item so it can continue to be used (I have a very loved denim shirt that after several years, has now become my all-purpose yard work, crafting and anything messy shirt).
How much do you look into a brand’s social or environmental practices before shopping?
I try to understand a brand’s social and environmental practices before making a purchase, though the information isn’t always easy to find or completely clear. Like any consumer, I know I will make mistakes in this regard and will not always make the best choices. For me, the key is to keep learning and making better choices over time, which is why I return to brands I trust.
Anything new you are doing to boost sustainability beyond the fashion industry?
At the company level, we’re exploring how to incorporate byproducts and waste from a variety of industries—not just fashion—into our formulations. The big picture goal is to find ways to reduce and repurpose waste, which will require collaboration across industries.
On a personal level, it’s nothing groundbreaking, but I’ve been making a conscious effort to cut down on single-use items and to rely more on public transit and walking instead of driving. It feels like “sustainability 101,” but the reality is that these everyday choices are easy to overlook when life gets busy or convenience takes over.
Sustainability doesn’t have to come at the expense of great design. With the flexibility of the Variloom technology, we aim to expand the possibilities for bespoke design while giving both designers and customers more freedom and customization. For us, sustainability and good design go hand in hand.
