ESG Outlook is Sourcing Journal’s discussion series with industry executives to get their take on their company’s latest environmental, social and governance initiatives and their own personal efforts toward sustainability.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the leading worldwide standard for the processing of organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile value chain. As a Voluntary Sustainability Standard (VSS) setter, GOTS defines what sustainability should look like in practice and provides a framework others can follow. The company sets stringent, but achievable, environmental and social criteria that drive meaningful change. Here, Claudia Kersten, manager director of GOTS, discusses the organization’s role to make sure that claims of sustainability are credible, consistent and grounded in third-party verification.
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Name: Claudia Kersten
Title: Managing Director
Company: Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
What do you consider your company’s best ESG-related achievement over the last 5 years?
Strengthening the integrity and influence of sustainable textile production globally. As an organization that sets VSS, we help others achieve their ESG goals through a robust standard that covers environmental protection, human rights and responsible business practices along the entire value chain. We achieve this by continuously strengthening our resources and regularly revising our standard to stay aligned with evolving science and policy. This gives companies the assurance that they are always equipped to meet and exceed regulatory compliance, irrespective of how legal standards evolve.
We’re also proud of our partnership with the European Space Agency which, when it was launched, was the first project of its kind to use AI and satellite imagery to detect organic versus non-organic cotton fields. This enables us to enhance the integrity of organic cotton and prevent fraud across the value chain.
What is your company’s latest ESG-related initiative?
We recently launched a new vision and mission, shaped by the evolving needs of the industry and the growing urgency for climate and social action. This transformation is about going beyond product-level certification to help catalyze systemic change. It’s reflected in the development of our latest standard update, which includes enhanced criteria on environmental protection, labor rights and accountability. We’re addressing issues like carbon intensity and worker agency more directly, ensuring our standard remains a strong driver of progress in a complex global landscape.
What is the biggest misconception consumers have about sustainability in fashion?
A common misconception is that sustainability is just about the product—what it’s made of, whether it’s organic or recycled. But sustainability isn’t just about materials; it’s about systems. That includes how fast we produce, how we treat workers, and whether we internalize the full environmental and social costs. We play a key role in helping shift the focus from surface-level fixes to systemic transformation. If products carried their true cost, including environmental degradation and labor exploitation, many of today’s problems could be addressed more effectively.
As consumers become more aware of worker conditions and how clothing is produced, how can the industry best spread the word on progress?
The best way to communicate progress is through credible, third-party certification like ours. They provide evidence—not just marketing claims—that a product meets verified sustainability criteria. Brands should use them not only to prove their efforts but also to talk about them transparently. As standard setters, we also need to do our part by making sustainability achievements more visible and accessible to both brands and consumers.
What do you consider to be the apparel industry’s biggest missed opportunity related to securing meaningful change?
The Covid-19 crisis presented a unique opportunity to rethink how fashion operates. In 2020 and 2021, we saw a surge in ESG pledges, but many of them weren’t backed by concrete action. When value chains shut down, millions of garment workers were left without protection, severance, or income. Brands had the chance to rebuild around fairness, resilience and shared responsibility—but instead, many reverted to business-as-usual, prioritizing cost-cutting over long-term change. That moment could have been a turning point. Unfortunately, it wasn’t.
What was your company’s biggest takeaway from the Covid crisis that is still relevant today?
We were already a fully virtual organization before the pandemic, so operationally, we were well-prepared. The real test came in the audit process, where independent, on-site inspections are critical for credibility. During the pandemic, we had to innovate. Virtual audits became necessary, and while they were never a full substitute for physical visits, they demonstrated how adaptable and creative systems can be without sacrificing integrity. It taught us that flexibility and trust can go hand in hand, especially when supported by strong frameworks and oversight.
On a personal level, what is your philosophy on shopping and caring for your clothes?
I buy less but better. When I do shop, I look for GOTS-certified or other credible certifications, or I choose second-hand. I also repair my clothes and encourage swapping or sharing instead of constantly buying new. For me, it’s about consuming more consciously, extending product life, minimizing waste and encouraging others to do the same.
How much do you look into a brand’s social or environmental practices before shopping?
I always research a brand’s practices before buying. As someone leading a sustainability standard, it’s not just a job, it’s a deeply held value. I’ve seen the best and worst of textile production, so I seek out brands with credible commitments and avoid those that fall short. In fact, I filter my product searches to prioritize sustainable options and don’t even consider conventional ones.
Anything new you are doing to boost sustainability beyond the fashion industry?
In my personal life, it’s nothing extravagant—just consistent. I try to reduce my CO₂ footprint, eat organic and regional food, and choose sustainable alternatives in everyday purchases, whether that’s cleaning products or home goods. I also try to engage in discussions and education with people of all ages to raise awareness.
Any final thoughts?
ESG isn’t a checklist. It’s a mindset. It requires a shift in how we think, make decisions and define success—not only in business, but also in daily life. If we adopt this mindset collectively, we can drive the systemic changes that sustainability demands.
