It was a homecoming of sorts. After three seasons in New York, Zadig & Voltaire brought the show home, full of ambitions to strengthen the international thrust of the label’s rock-edged leather and knitwear universe.
“It was very important for us to express ourselves in the American market…but Paris remains Paris and we are Parisian,” said artistic director Cecilia Bönström. The Paris stamp is central to the credibility of the many brands hailing from the French capital and looking to widen their nets, including Zadig & Voltaire. The label taps into demand for a youthful-edged sexiness that is embraced by a wide age range, as seen in the profusion of long manes of wavy hair, tight leather pants, pointy boots and leather jackets in the packed stands flanking the runway.
Bönström’s spring lineup was a parade of house codes, with an added touch of romantic feminism brought by a vintage flower print. The designer kicked off the show with an androgynous look — a masculine shirt, tie and trousers; she wore the same shirt backstage before the show.
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Then came oversize sweaters with distressed detailing paired with very short shorts; loose, deconstructed jeans; light, floral dresses, and cropped sweatshirts. There were a number of Georgia bags, colored snakeskin style and hanging open to show the pouches inside. Reflecting the label’s emphasis on leather jackets, she offered them in black, red, distressed blue, white and a vintage black — one of which was modeled by Jordan Barrett.
A collaboration with Woolmark produced sleeveless jersey sweaters, marked with the names of Freja Beha, Sasha Pivovarova and Eva Herzigová and the latest perfume, made by Shiseido and called “Girls can do anything” sat on benches for guests.