Masha Ma kicked off her spring lineup with a shirtdress, which she described as “clinical, clean and sharp.” It was also very feminine, confirming this was an exercise in slate-cleaning. What followed marked a turn into a softer, more fluid and luxurious place with a collection that felt self assured.
She turned her back on the club scenes but her interests continue to lie in a strange, futuristic universe — and she referenced the film “Annihilation” for this season.
The color palette had less black and electric blue, but a lot of bright emerald green, yellow and safari hues. Outerwear remained an obsession, with ongoing support from sponsor Kolon Sport; highlights included a long, pale yellow rain coat with fin-like flaps jetting up off the back, a shiny emerald green bomber with oversize arms and a short tan rain jacket with a hood.
“I want my woman to be protected in my clothes but at the same time not restricted,” she said backstage before the show. She also noted the label has taken on casting director Barbara Nicoli, known for her work with Gucci, and that under new operating rules, aims for a beautiful and intellectual look.
You May Also Like
“I want them to look intellectual, not sweet; she’s new this season,” the designer explained.
The nature references that replaced the club vibes were refined, and included a safari coat and khaki Bermuda shorts, as well as a shimmery python skirt with lace. Snake images were also prevalent, locked into a figure eight twisted into the infinity shape. Low-heeled patent leather sandals with an elegant half-moon handbag added to the polished look.
A Chinese designer who was trained in the workshops of the West, Ma compared her country to a fictional space that alters things that enter it.
“I feel like China is like The Shimmer — whatever goes in changes it doesn’t stay the same anymore,” she said.