Glenn Martens didn’t reinvent what he’s been doing at Y/Project for his spring collection, but he did cast a new eye on the quintessential dorky dad in his Hawaiian shirt and khakis; the goody two-shoes country club girl in her pink cardigan, white blouse and pearls, and the Nineties suburban kid who listened to rap in his fleece, jeans and Timberlands. Martens gave these uniforms of mundanity, conformity and complete lack of imagination a new lease on life. Even the natty, shapeless faded red polo worn to death by an endearingly clueless goof I was smitten with a few years ago had hope in Martens’ hands. It was reimagined as a crop top with a drawstring waist and worn over bunched tulle pants.
Taking what’s familiar and basic way out of its comfort zone is Martens’ gift and goal. It’s within the universe of what Demna Gvasalia started Vetements with, but Martens’ vision is far more romantic. “Y/Project is always about individuality and reinforcing personality and characters,” he said backstage. “Sometimes on the catwalk you see different kinds of women, but sometimes also all these women are new.” He gave play-by-the-rules stereotypes permission to break the mold, cutting a pair of jeans under the bum to give each cheek breathing room; encasing a preppy sweater tied around the neck in swirls of sheer tulle, and mixing the worlds of sport, Nineties street, couture and tailoring. Tracksuits done in couture proportions became eveningwear. A nude tulle turtleneck and biker shorts traced in delicate squiggly embroidery left little to the imagination yet skewed to the romantic rather than raunchy side of sexy. Workwear, as in takes on the corporate attire — trenches, blouses and suits — came in exaggerated proportions mixed with sweats and casualwear.
You May Also Like
Everything could be adjusted — pant legs scrunched up or pulled down; dresses made long or short. “You’re supposed to play with it,” said Martens. Indeed, it was fun to see commonplace clothes made subversive and special. Perhaps that’s not a new concept, but Martens’ way with it hasn’t gotten old yet either.