For a collection that was all about the Amazon, Elie Saab got the room temperature just right: the Grand Palais venue was sweltering before the first palm frond print hit the catwalk.
The designer worked a rainbow of colors in tonal and degradé looks. A Grecian-style pleated evening gown seeped from jungle green to waterfall blue, while daywear options included a canary yellow short dress with geometric embroideries, which came with matching sandals and oversized shades for added zing.
Saab said the monochrome looks were a throwback to his Nineties designs, yet the show marked a step forward in his quest to bring more daywear into the mix. “I feel a new energy in this collection,” he said backstage.
The effort was most apparent in the studded T-shirts, knotted shirts and embellished biker jackets that were sprinkled throughout the display. There was a whiff of Roberto Cavalli in the profusion of python print and silk fringe, but the princess gowns were pure Saab.
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They came in black tulle embroidered with pink and green leaves, or in bold color-blocked shades with sexy cutouts at the midriff. A sheer white bustier dress embroidered with white leaves felt like an oasis of calm in his tropical reverie.