The latest crop of designers in the Parsons M.F.A. Fashion Design and Society program — dubbed “The Fifth Generation” — showed collections Wednesday. The group of 13 designers presented an array of aesthetics, ranging from sheer and deconstructed suits from Gahee Lim to traditional men’s wear suits reinterpreted through the use of silk paneling at Snow Xue Gao.
This year, the men’s wear stood out for its creative range and for having its finger on the pulse of trends. Among the men’s wear highlights was Kozaburo Akasaka, who took a stab at his interpretation of the Eighties via superfitted, high-waisted denim, voluminous suits and a elongated, fitted navy topcoat paired with semiflared trousers. Jahnkoy, who closed the show, brought a sporty, avant-garde flair to his offering through the use of Native American references, such as beading on sweatpants and traditional American sport jerseys infused with graphic patterns that took their cue from the streetwear craze.
Among the women’s collections, most notable was Anna Marie Gruber’s slick youthful designs: skin-tight, above-the-knee dresses with sheer paneling and color-blocked linear graphics. Although extremely minimal — nearly all the looks were all white — it brought a true Nineties sensibility to the lineup.