Michelle Helene’s Seventies-tinged spring collection, though playful, may not have been the best representation of this relatively new designer’s direction. The 10 looks she showed failed to create a real sense of what she wanted to contribute in the fashion space. There were highlights, such a pair of cropped high-waisted jeans paired with a playful banana print shirtdress, and a denim jumpsuit with a handwoven shoulder detail. The collection offered lighthearted kitsch, but didn’t introduce any singular piece with must-have, truly unique appeal.
Which is a shame, considering how passionately Helene can speak about the handwoven, artisanal knits she and her brother produce in New Mexico and have shown in past seasons (none of which factored into spring, aside from touches of weaving and crochet as embellishments). As she described, it’s an organic process that is eco-friendly and helps local craftsmen. Though this was an experimental season to gauge consumer interest in ready-to-wear items, perhaps the next collection should incorporate more of the artisanal spirit that’s at the label’s core.