The 40,000 books that decorate the walls of the Sonia Rykiel store on Boulevard Saint-Germain were cloaked behind black velvet curtains. A sparkly runway snaked through the store, and waiters circulated with trays of Champagne and vivid blue and purple cocktails. No reading Monday night chez Rykiel: It was party time!
Exalting the Left Bank’s reputation for nightlife — the Montana within spitting distance — designer Julie de Libran went for clothes with details that would catch your eye, even in a crowded, smoky bar: a swish of long leather fringe; dense patches of sequins, even on sweatshirts, and elongated, caped backs dripping over shoulders like candle wax.
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De Libran put her own stamp on two trends gaining momentum in Paris — ruffles and pleats — the former banding the arms and torsos, the latter tightly packed in a mango-colored silk top and skirt or a dead-simple red knit column. There was a seductive ease to short one-shoulder dresses with a togalike fall of fabric, the apron-front gowns with chain straps and bare backs, and the colorful feather boas dragged through the packed show space.
It’s time for de Libran to move Rykiel to a bigger stage and elaborate on the daywear at which she excels. In her swingy denim shirt and crisp culottes, the Rykiel reader would be the coolest girl at the library.