This was a solid collection by Hussein Chalayan. He developed ideas laid out in his Cuba-inspired resort lineup, elevating the design quotient while maintaining resort’s fresh ease. His feminized takes on Army garb — a dusty utilitarian jumpsuit and top with sweetheart necklines and gathered waistlines — offered a fresh, womanly take on military. Dresses and sporty separates were interestingly constructed with soft folds and pleats. One series carried a print of an insectlike character from the Forties called Plonk that the designer had previously introduced in resort.
For the most part, Chalayan limited the experimental special effects for which he is known to cigars worn in little holsters on the military stuff and conceptual cuts, here relatively restrained. But halfway through the show, two models who stood stationary in the middle of the runway wearing what looked like paper lab coats were showered with water — it must’ve been chilly because one of the girls was shivering almost to the point of tears — causing the coats to disintegrate into delicate cocktail dresses.