David Koma’s first runway show for Mugler was positioned as “a blank slate” for the customer, whoever she may be at this point. After a few years under the buzzy but bizarre and otherworldly creative direction of Nicola Formichetti and Sebastien Peigné, the label presumably hired Koma to bring Mugler back to planet earth, where women shop. Koma’s spring proposition of sexy tailoring and slinky dresses with anatomical cutouts traced in chrome coils was certainly more wearable than his predecessors’. But it also blended into a genre that’s at a saturation point — though they say there’s always a market for sexy.
The mostly monochromatic lineup of black and white, ice blue and orange included slick le smokings worn with bodysuits that were sliced into curvy cutouts, and tight crepe shifts, crop tops and pencil skirts also cut out to zone in on erogenous zones. Watch out Anthony Vaccarello — Koma has his eye on the hip bones, too.