For his debut on the Paris runway, wunderkind Esteban Cortazar did not disappoint. Dominated by stiffened leather in a palette that included bottle green, deep burgundy and burnt orange, the 23 looks he sent out were sexy, and yet the irregular hemlines and asymmetric cutouts were inventive.
The rigidity of many looks was counterbalanced by the sensual motion and transparency of chiffon or organza and jersey fringing, with skirt hems backed in a taut fabric that made them appear to hover around the legs. The riveted green suede jacket that opened the show was exceptional.
Backed by new investors after a two-year exclusive partnership with Net-a-porter, the designer had already presented the range to buyers during resort, with the show timed a month before delivery begins. If the resounding applause at the end of this collection was anything to go by, Cortazar is on something of a roll.