If pink is the navy blue of India, as Diana Vreeland once posited, orange comes in a pretty close second. Barbara Bui let rip on the color chart this season, sprinkling her usual sleek monochrome lineup with a dose of vibrant hues and metallic foil.
She opened the show with a Nehru-collared coat decked in Indian mirror embroidery. The dense technique was also used for rolled-up jeans worn with a simple white T-shirt and pointy silver brogues.
Bui used draping and layering to incorporate elements of masculine tailoring into the mix. An ensemble in safety orange, for example, consisted of an oversize sheer T-shirt concealing a heavy gold chain, worn over pants with panels tied in front like loose shirtsleeves.
For her faithful customers who swear by an all-black wardrobe, there were plenty of chic options, too, ranging from leather pants to a sweeping silk duster coat.