The spring collection was Theory’s first by longtime design alum and former vice president Lisa Kulson, who was hired to take Olivier Theyskens’ place. Kulson’s vision of the Theory customer manifested in a relaxed, understated lineup done in neutrals and earth tones that will appeal to the brand’s core customer, who wants a shot of fashion in her work clothes. She injected a few pops of color and suede. The strongest look combined both: a caramel suede coat over a white poplin shirt worn with orange pants that felt feminine and cool. Proportions were kept loose — think oversize blazers with wide trousers, tunics over A-line skirts and a particularly fetching pair of suede culottes — and were styled mostly with flat sandals. For after-hours, there were a few athletic-inspired looks, including a white anorak and a perforated leather shell.