Within the fashion ranks, Max Mara is something of a soldier — it might not lead the stylistic charge, yet it’s a reliable source of solid merchandise that usually promises a long wardrobe shelf life. Typically the keepers stand out — a tweak on a classic coat, for example, or a simple, timeless dress. But for spring the mission was muddled, mostly by a murky color palette of beige, greige and mustard, and an overdose of prints that were bland even when served head-to-toe.
The lean shapes summoned Seventies bourgeois with plainly cut, long-sleeve shirts over straight midi skirts, often worn under long coats. Overall, it was a sophisticated silhouette that got bogged down by styling and prints, such as the micro florals and dots, worn ultra-matchy-matchy from the droopy rain hats to the knee-high boots.
Strong pieces, such as a dusty, ankle-length military jacket and the linen pinstripe blazers, shone through the collection. Press notes referenced Serge Gainsbourg’s “Laide Jolie Laide.” More jolie, please.