Peet Dullaert wanted to subvert traditional notions of innerwear and outerwear this season. “I always do the thing with the sportswear and the undergarments that of course we’ve seen in other houses as well,” said the designer, who champions freedom of movement in his creations. “Now I thought, what is the inside? This can be the outside…I tried to look for a dynamic in the way things work together.”
A boned corset in ballet pink peeped out from beneath a jacket adorned with glittering black beaded fringing, above a matching pencil skirt. A bustier gown was embroidered with individual pleated fabric feathers, its corset with an open flap to one side revealing lavish embroideries. This was not just innerwear as outerwear; the opposite stood true too.
He layered crystal-bedecked sheath gowns over Lycra bodysuits — one of his signatures. These sheer dresses had skeleton-like crystal embellishments that were melded onto silicone strips before being fused to the tulle, reinforcing the shape of the desired motif so it seemed to move with the body, rather than the fabric.
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The Dutch designer, who never sketches and abhors a mood board, wrapped and folded his fabrics to create his characteristic textile puffs. Long tuxedo coats had satin skirts and folded waistlines, while elaborate bustier bodices with embellished boning and vaporous pleated peplums were paired with classic pants, in one look seen with a contrasting yellow silk puff of fabric in the guise of a skirt.
An elongated tuxedo jacket was paired with an embroidered miniskirt hemmed with another roll of silk that, in pale blue, looked like a little cloud. That motif was reprised on the final look, a majestic opera coat in white taffeta scattered with sparkly cumuli.
Dullaert continued to build on the tailoring he explored last season, leaving tacking details and unfinished hems visible here and there. His cropped tuxedo pants had elongated silk flaps at the side, intended to evoke the tailplane of an aircraft, for instance, trailing on the floor and echoing the ribbons and bows that elsewhere adorned his designs. Among the chunky, glittering accessories, an upside-down crown in the guise of a choker was a fun nod to his topsy-turvy theme.