At the top of the Genny catwalk, installed in a vast industrial complex carpeted in ivory white, stood a Marc Quinn black orchid sculpture.
The audience had a collective dejà-vu. The centerpiece was already displayed in a white version a year ago at the brand’s spring 2025 show. The now signature Genny bloom didn’t just serve as an arty setup but instead as an inspiration for lineup. Same as last year.
Branding, sure, but the inspiration rejig didn’t exactly spin a refreshing narrative on the collection. As for fashion itself, creative director Sara Cavazza Facchini seemed to find a better footing than in seasons past — her flair for hyper-femininity and sensual concoctions, sometimes too coy or outdated, was toned down here.
Instead of drawing from orchids’ painterly color and fragile appearance as she did previously, the designer drew a parallel between their sinuous shape and the female body, sometimes with literal references, as in the stiff and sculptural frills edging the hemlines and collars of body-con stretch midi dresses and rib-knit tank frocks.
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Elsewhere she managed to incorporate the concept more subtly, plying flattering ensembles to exalt the women’s curves.
Zeroing in on lightness — a quality she often describes as the starting point of her creative process — see-through stretch pencil skirts, billowing, ethereal chiffon gowns with draped ruches and airy silk nightgowns tossed over pajama sets conjured a pretty and sophisticated mood.
Her daywear proposition included newish takes on tailoring, with short-sleeved or vest-like silk tuxedo-style blazers over fluid pants, occasionally enriched with rhinestone floral embellishments. No fireworks, but a nice way to answer the need for chic everyday attire that would easily double up as occasion wear. The prettiest version came in gauged linen.
There was measured romance in eveningwear, too, with a pink strapless number pleated and overprinted with subtle tone-on-tone floral patterns and featherlight organza numbers with a plissé sculptural bodice.
The collection marked a step forward for Cavazza Facchini, but would have benefited from less styling, for the sautoir necklaces and pendent earrings were a distraction from the clear quality of fabrics and constructions.