Philosophical as ever, Rei Kawakubo designed her latest Comme des Garçons collection based on her present state of mind, rather than a particular theme. In her notes for the mini show, held in her company’s offices in Tokyo, she said she focused on what is left after getting rid of things that she feels are not needed. These include “the making of intricate fabrics, the use of complicated colors, patterns which clearly define the body, [and] details that emphasize the clothes.”
Much of Kawakubo’s latest offering for women seemed to be about volume: bulbous shapes, giant sleeve, outsized prints. She opened the show with a series of dresses devoid of color, letting the unusual shapes speak for themselves. A balloon-like number in a mix of polka dot and bow prints was like a massive T-shirt, twisted to the side so the sleeves fell in the front and back. Another was in the shape of a flower, crafted from a checkered patchwork of shiny and matte black fabrics.
Next came neon shocks of pink, yellow or green over a black background. But as she hinted in her notes, some of Kawakubo’s strongest looks of the season didn’t use color at all, instead using contrasts in texture to create patterns. A plasticky black fabric was gathered into large bow-shaped appliqués on a voluminous black cape, while long, thick strips of black tulle were tied into oversize knots adorning an asymmetrical dress. Some of the more sculptural looks used frames to create circular or wavy protrusions around the body.
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The designer closed the show with a frock that resembled a padded, upholstered chair, complete with wings at the shoulders and a pleated skirt around the base.
She likened her collection to “simple pebbles you get after rough rocks have been washed over and swept down the river.” And while for most designers it would be considered anything but simple, it had an avant-garde pureness that is unique to Kawakubo.