“Putting this collection together was kind of insane, it’s chaotic and a real mashup of everything — thoughts, ideas, fabrics, color,” Yeohlee Teng remarked during a showroom walk-through of her spring collection, later adding, ”It’s like a mixed bag. I think that from the very serious viewpoint, which is not necessarily what we’re going to reflect, you have to think about your clothing as your last shelter….But you know, I didn’t do any flotation devices.”
The look: A true mashup of techy, protective silhouettes and fabrications against reinvigorated daywear separates and evening options, with flashes of metallic throughout.
Quote of note: “I’m doing extinction,” Teng said. “I really feel, in a light way, that life as we knew it is gone, over. So that’s where one has to begin. If life as we know it is over, what is life today? I have mixed feelings because I think that we have a lot of things that are in crisis mode, and then you can’t look away, so how don’t you deal with it? One day at a time.”
Key pieces: The best looks included new iterations of Teng’s outerwear hallmarks — sporty sleek, transformational utilitarian details — black hooded techy outerwear, including the signature cape, which had a protective yet slightly ominous feel. Double-faced trousers made of the reflective emergency blanket’s Mylar fabrication added to the ideas of shelter. Also, upcycled “vintage plus Yeohlee” long-sleeve T-shirts; box-sleeve blouses; a “glamour school girl” look; bias-cut evening offerings, like an “experimental” red and maroon evening gown with cascading, open back.
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The takeaway: Teng’s “mixed bag” description of spring hit the nail on the head.