When Roland Mouret started compiling his ideas for resort 2024, it was the Hollywood attitude of dressing that he turned to, in the sense that women now control what they wear rather than adhering to beauty standards.
“It’s [the collection] for women who really own and control their bodies,” he said in an interview, detailing the ‘60s as a period of great fashion juxtapositions.
“It was this notion of the waist diminishing your body, which was controlled by men at the time because it was after the war, but it’s quite interesting to go back to a ‘60s attitude and take away all that control,” he added.
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He used stretch, light and heavy-cady to manipulate the silhouette of the dresses without compromising on comfort or glamour.
Sequins were another big story for him in the collection and it’s something that Mouret believes establishes femininity and womanhood.
“There are so many references at the moment of amazing singers on stage in sequins — they’re not deteriorated by it, but rather really strong characters,” said Mouret, alluding to musicians such as Beyoncé, Taylor Swift and Dua Lipa without mentioning their names.
Sherbet yellows, bright reds, deep maroons and rich creams featured more so than in past collections. The reasoning is because the French designer wants to approach different markets, such as Miami and Los Angeles.
The light yellow one-shoulder dress is an ode to one Rosamund Pike wore to the 2008 Oscars — this time around, Mouret has added a floor-length shoulder sash. Meanwhile, the origami fold off-the-shoulder dress in the same hue is a reference to the collection he designed after his father’s passing in 2009.
The strategy for the brand is to “define a way of dressing from day to eveningwear,” a plan that Mouret has been working on with Han Chong since Chong acquired the brand in 2021.