Roland Mouret took a softer turn this season, looking to Italian actresses of the late Forties and early Fifties, and the glamour of Rome’s Cinecittà film studios. “I kept the sensuality, but the collection is softer with more volume and fabric moving around the body. I’m calling it my Italian collection,” said the designer, who also worked pleats into the collection for the first time. He said he was inspired by a visit to The Glamour of Italian Fashion exhibition at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum last year, and by the signature designs of Mariano Fortuny.
Mouret’s feminine, fluid lineup was packed with shin-grazing full skirts and loads of texture and lightweight knitwear. There were diamond-patterned cutouts on a powdery pink dress, a languid bathrobe coat in mint and white, structured A-line skirts and short basque jackets done in a micro waffle-textured cotton. Short, sleeveless dresses had cowl-neck collars and zipper details, while tops were done in off-the-shoulder styles. Knits were lighter than ever and included short, figure-hugging cardigans with cutout backs and pleatlike details around the cuffs. It was a bold departure from the designer’s sharp, body-con silhouettes — but it worked.