Markus Lupfer was in a rebellious mood for pre-fall, adding tough touches to his signature girlish looks.
A mix of references, from punk to military and rodeo, came together to create a refreshing, new look juxtaposing the romantic with the subversive. “It was all about the attitude,” Lupfer said.
The designer created two new motifs for the collection — the wild sparrow and the rose — which were printed all over feminine chiffon dresses and embroidered on tweed jackets. He toughened these signature pieces by pairing the dresses with studded high-gloss belts and oversize mohair cardigans, with Courtney Love’s misfit style in mind.
Texture was another key element: Lupfer updated his floral-printed dresses in velvet, while his popular T-shirts were embellished with punk pins. Intarsia knitwear — another key category for the label — was re-created using cooler oversize silhouettes and worn with vinyl trousers.
Military elements came in the form of khaki-quilted parkas and skirts, worn with feminine rose-printed chiffon dresses or lace shirts. A black lace jacket with contrasting military-inspired oversize pockets and epaulettes was among the standout pieces.