While originally a men’s line, designer Glenn Martens is now fully embracing full gender fluidity. Paraded at the dark Gibus nightclub in Paris, this underground collection riffed on both medieval and Nineties club-kid references.
Pinstripes were recurrent in tailored looks in offbeat proportions – think tight, high-waist pants worn with belted jackets and matching tops under big roomy coats done with big exaggerated sleeves pressed flat from the shoulders to look like a magician’s robe. Denim was key, too, from tight jeans to tailored total looks with jackets and coats all in bleached fabric, while more casual sweatshirts were sometimes in a vibrant red adorned with metallic plates on one sleeve. While some looks were messy, Martens is definitely carving an intriguing identity for this label.