Forget deconstruction — clean chic is taking over at Maison Margiela, which conspicuously steered away from its signature style for spring into a surprisingly polished direction. The design team produced softly tailored looks with just a pinch of rock ‘n’ roll, redefining the new Parisian gentleman as a connoisseur of carefully weighted volumes and restrained hues. Beautifully languid trenches in terracotta, black or stone gave swagger to single-pleat linen suits, while airy tuxedo jackets in cream or black turned into long statement coats with big satin lapels, evoking a dreamy kind of cool.
There was an edgy moment of rock, too, as seen on a run of rubberized items such as painted tank tops and sliced butcher aprons worn over slim-fit leather pants that were matched with studded boots or Spartan sandals.
In keeping with the less-is-more aesthetic, the lineup could have done without the occasional flares of glitter on otherwise clean-cut suits and perfectos.