Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson cast his 11-year-old son, Frasse, as the sole model in his fall women’s campaign for Acne Studios. He continued the gender blurring with his spring men’s wear, his toothpick models lurching on their platform boots in filmy shorts, dress-length sweaters and short-sleeved secretary pantsuits.
The radical footwear winked to the New York Dolls and the unisex dressing of that era, which the designer combined with prints scanned from the long surfboards of Robin Kegel. “It has the femininity that I like, and the street-oriented attitude,” he explained after models finished mincing around a Marais gallery.
Nearly transparent wools for loose pants and trenchcoats heightened the androgyny, as did offbeat colors like peach and dusty rose. For regular guys in search of this Swedish brand’s cool sportswear, Johansson offered shrunken blazers, snug leather blousons and the billowing navy shirt that opened the show.