Often a sleeper collection in Milan, Marc Jacobs pulled off another hit for spring — a mash-up of military uniforms and Japanese boudoir silks for the brand’s touchstone archetype, the East Village hipster.
The collection embraced the season’s slouchy mood via the bedroom — heavy on pajamalike shirts, pants and shorts, along with silky robes and an array of retro lingerie colors. Smoking jackets, blazers and jean-style jackets in hammered velvets fed the louche, lounge-lizard mood.
This flimsy stuff served as a foil to sturdy utility coats and shirt jackets in an array of army greens. Tailored pants were wide-leg and puddled around the ankle, while tailored jackets had a softer shoulder.
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As the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand is being phased out, the signature collection men’s line is to ultimately widen its scope. A precursor to that: The return of Jacobs’ ringer T-shirts of yore, here done up as slinky, fine-gauge silk sweaters.