Eccentric tailor Turnbull & Asser presented its fall collection in a subterranean vault near Trafalgar Square. For good reason: Dean Gomilsek-Cole head of design and product development had set an Orwellian theme: London razed to the ground.
Its replacement was a new city, Mundania, where eccentricity is the enemy. Suits, often designed to wear as separates, came in Escorial wool jacquards and more rustic tweeds with traditional Glen and Windowpane checks or “disrupted” Prince of Wales versions. Shawl-collared, silk smoking jackets from the Nocturnalist eveningwear line came in a new double-breasted silhouette.
Other novelties were a mac in weatherproof shirt fabric, supersize pocket-squares-cum-scarves and the brand’s debut jeans in a selvage fabric handmade in London. Conversation-piece shirts and ties featured London cityscapes, often shot through with a torn Prince of Wales motif, as if a propaganda poster had been ripped asunder.