Chitose Abe was wearing her heart, not on her sleeve but on her T-shirt, during a walk-through of her poetic — and practical — menswear and women’s resort presentation, which replaced her usual runway show this season.
Her black T-shirt had the phrase “Every Day, All Day” picked out in white thread on the front, and it summed up the spring collection, which she designed to meet her customers’ needs 24/7.
“People want to dress up, but they still want the clothes to feel really easy — all day long,” said the designer, who introduced a new silhouette with wide, rounded trouser legs, and billowy sleeves that were draped and tucked in the style of the Three Musketeers.
You May Also Like
Abe said her starting point was a cashmere-cotton “tuxedo” with a cropped, peacoat-like jacket and the wider trouser legs, for men and women. For customers on the hunt for a less formal look — or who like taking Zoom calls from bed — there was a tailored-suit-cum-pajama set made from cotton pinstripe shirt fabric.
The designer said she chose to do a presentation this season to give everyone the opportunity to see the stitching, draping and detail on the new silhouettes.
Even the chunky, spongy knits — which resembled rag rugs — were rounder, and cocooning. They came with puffy shoulders and skinny sleeves, another nod to the Musketeers’ Renaissance style, while other colorful polo styles and cardigans had more modern flair.
Abe’s womenswear was also comfortable — and glamorous — with nods here and there to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who spliced the formal with the sporty.
There were too many beautiful pieces to count, with highlights including flapper style dresses with knife-pleats and uneven hemlines, ideal for “Downton Abbey” fans; a skirt suit with a split personality — part gray tailored wool, part silky bomber and a cream, ruffle-edged skirt paired with a matching sweatshirt, ideal for brides who prefer to jog, rather than walk, down the aisle.