Bluemarble’s Anthony Alvarez continued to walk a more down-to-earth path for spring, all the better to highlight his craft. Inspired by mountain paths in the South of France and the great outdoors, in particular, the cable car in the city of Toulon that carries passengers directly to the top of the mountain from town, he described “an encounter between two opposite forces that are connected through a single thread.” Speaking ahead of his show, he said, “It really created a space of passage and of dialog, and we explore that dialog in this collection.”
This was attire for town and country, but with a sporty, streetwise spin. The funicular served as both inspiration and motif, its image serving as a print on the opening denim looks, paired with T-shirts that said “Beyond” in scripted letters. Metallic rope embroideries evoking mountaineering gear formed delicate curlicues that nodded to Americana — Alvarez grew up in both France and on the U.S. West Coast, he reminded us — down the legs of jeans, just one way in which he continued to explore hand embroidery to deliver his own streetwise spin on glitz.
Relaxed yet elevated wool pants had translucent organza panels on the sides and intricate metallic embroideries, particularly appealing in an earthy brown.
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Further motifs included Barbary figs, their prickles done as rhinestones, while thistle and floral appliqués featured on jersey or denim. Floral prints served as extra stripes on otherwise classic men’s shirts, and bright denim tunics were covered with pin badges nodding to travel. Formal jackets were worn oversized, lining details emerging from the cuffs, while boots were dipped in colorful latex and sneakers nodded to hiking boots, all part of the play on contrasts.