For spring, Hed Mayner presented something old and something new, often winding them into the same garment for a fresh, elegant effect.
“This season we started by taking classic elements from the men’s wardrobe — familiar, almost boring, everyday pieces like the classics, the blazer, trousers, trenchcoat, pullover — and transformed them completely, to give them this kind of excitement,” Mayner explained.
That he did bring. There is a simultaneously known and unknown spirit in this fashion, where the designer takes a cue from classic British tailoring fabrics, such as cotton poplin, gaberdine, seersucker and mohair, but twists them in various ways. Lurex threads help give a wrinkled effect in the texture-rich materials he uses.
“We work a lot with fabrics that have a memory,” Mayner said. They also were chosen in lighter neutral tones than in the past.
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He joined two jackets with glue, foil-bonded suiting and stitches together two shirts, resulting in new, often voluminous, shapes and sway to the clothing.
Layers abounded, with a jacket lined with another jacket. Trousers came baggy, with pockets and pleating in the front, eschewing tradition.
Mayner explained he was “playing with this memory of that masculinity [of yesteryear], but removes the status from it — all the codes, the elements.”
Instead, he aimed to create a “blurred, new personality. The attitude is already imposed on the garment, even when it’s on the hanger.”