Alexandre Mattiussi was feeling lucky, showing his coed collection on a breezy summer night at Tennis Club de Paris in the 16th arrondissement where designers including Helmut Lang, Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane had all staged successful shows. “Being here is kind of amazing,” said the designer. “It’s a very special place that brings you luck and it’s the perfect white box for a show.”
He transformed the courts into a vast white-carpeted stage and scored point after point with an elegant collection that was filled with clean lines and lots of sparkle.
Mattiussi championed tailoring, sending out the scruffily handsome Vincent Cassel in a long, fluid topcoat with high slits at the side that was brimming with urban flair. (Speaking of the city streets, the chunky striped heels on shoes looked a lot like the Colonnes De Buren, Daniel Buren’s installation in the courtyard of the Palais Royal.)
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More fluid coats followed in a gentle palette of taupe, stone, faded rose and pistachio. More formal fare came in the shape of dark, roomy pinstripe suits for men and women alike.
Other silhouettes sparkled with sequins, such as a boxy olive blouse with wide sleeves. “Ideal if you’re going to the Beyoncé concert,” said the designer. Slouchy jeans, and narrow, low-slung skirts, glittered just as brightly.
Sequins weren’t the only source of shine. Mattiussi’s neutral, gentle colors got a lift from some terrific metallic accessories such as gold, chunky-heel boots which the designer paired with pieces including an olive sequin skirt. A shiny gold, top-handle bag added polish to a pistachio coat while the gold hardware on a taupe handbag sparkled plenty.
There was so much wearable, commercial fare here, something that makes Mattiussi proud. “I do these shows for my customers, the ones who are watching on screens all over the world. And I love making clothes that people want to wear,” said the designer who also loves making his own luck.