Inspired by artist Alida Rodriguez, who questions the notion of identity, Winnie’s Idris Balogun was having a moment of introspection. “I looked at the way I saw myself and the world and fashion, my chosen profession,” he explained.
This resulted in a play on stereotypes for this year’s Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize joint winner, who transposed his skills learned on Savile Row, experimenting with fabrication in a sportier, more casual collection, crafted uniquely with natural fabrics. “I got really comfortable with using my experience of pattern-making in different ways,” he explained.
While impeccable tailored pieces — a Wall Street shirt, a pinstriped suit — were there for those who looked, the bulk of the collection veered less formal, enhanced by a broad color palette. Heavyweight linens made for cargo pants and crisp T-shirts, a silk/cotton blend used for sporty pieces, while tailoring informed arm details on a leather bomber jacket.
Staging his presentation as an installation, with clothes hanging, seemingly haphazardly, in a walk-through frame, Balogun said he wants people to reflect on the clothes. “I want people to appreciate the piece rather than the way it’s styled,” he said.
You May Also Like
While that may have made the collection more difficult to read commercially, it forced the observer to look closely — and admire his skill.