“I’m always attracted to the elegant man, but I’m always kind of a mess,” admitted Haider Ackermann backstage after his wild patchwork of a show, which he said was all about getting dressed by accident and instinct in the morning. “You put something on. It matches, it clashes, it doesn’t fit. That’s my world — I’ve got quite a few things going on,” the designer said of his namesake line. (He will make his debut as Berluti’s new creative director on Friday.)
The collection had a punk feel, with magnified houndstooth fabrics patchworked with black leather for vests and jackets; a long, dark red military style coat, and plaid, checked or striped trousers, some with tartan tops knotted around the waist. Velvet played a starring role, patched together with leather or wool for a jacket or adorned with devoré fabric with ragged edges or more houndstooth checks.
There were shiny, billowing anoraks, hoodies, houndstooth topcoats and suede bombers that came with turtlenecks, tank tops and vests. It wasn’t an elegant outing, and it was kind of a mess — but its deshabille style created an immense charm. Only fashion victims think too much about getting dressed.