We could all do with a bit of love and emotional rescue, right? That was Milan Vukmirovic’s thinking, with among the more literal expressions on the theme a white shirt with a rich red human heart embroidered at the breast.
Not that he’s gone all soppy. The designer in his “army of love” march joined the growing movement for protectionist dressing and pursued a more masculine path “after a few seasons of gender mixing and femininity.” Cue quilted fencing-style vests in blue pinstripes over matching shirts, cool cape coats with slit sleeves and parkas striped with reflective bands. Baggy black pants with the ease of sweatpants lent an urban street, Japanese vibe, with ringed straps trailing from the hips (a trend this season so far — similar looks were seen at Ermenegildo Zegna).
The sober palette was energized by shots of color and neons on textured knits and striped puffas nodding to his Nineties youth. As did the minimalist, workwear-rooted garb in robust fabrics like deep diagonal twills and raw-edged cotton canvas.
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“There are so many parallels with the youth of today and my youth, this feeling that everything is possible and at the same time there is an insecurity about what’s to come. With all the changes happening, one of my reactions was no fear. That’s what I put on social media. We should not be scared,” said the designer, who ended the show with a glimmer of optimism: a sequined grunge sweater in twinkling black and charcoal stripes.