Alessandro Dell’Acqua looked to the student demonstrations in Milan and Paris in the early Seventies for the attitude of this merch-friendly, rebel-spirited ode to freedom.
The silhouettes had shrunken volumes, including a camel Montgomery duffle coat that hugged the body by way of short khaki utilitarian straps replacing toggles. Other outerwear till-ringers included the faux shearling anoraks with black duchesse satin panels, wrinkled dull-gold bombers and checked coats with featherweight neoprene linings. (These protesters were not skimping on quality and comfort.)
Witty moments included a Nordic sweater with its pattern interrupted mid stitch with among unexpected details the detachable sweatshirt hoods tied at the necks of certain looks which had sequin embroidery. Bicolor knits sported striped armbands, while the bright graphics of the line’s bikers were also transplanted onto puffer jackets.
There was nothing revolutionary about the collect per se, but it added to the season’s message of protest in its own approachable, charming and concise way.