The unlikely worlds of aviation and late Seventies punk collided in this merch-friendly collection nodding, in theory, to a generation looking at once to rebel and for reassurance. In reality, it played out as a consistent, outerwear-strong effort that’s bound to get the thumb’s up from the label’s faithful followers, elevated with some fine handiwork.
Creative directors Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch for the (rather well-behaved) punk storyline sent out clean-cut wool bombers with raised motifs in metal embroidery; sweatshirts with formations of gleaming black spikes, and a slim black-and-red jacquard suit in allover arrow motifs winking to runway signalization. (In a continuation of the theme, a “Chaos” camouflage print patterning a parka was made up of landing runway strips and the like.)
Outerwear highlights included aviator jackets framed by raised, oversize shearling collars and on-trend parkas with long quilted underlayers peeking out.