To celebrate its tailoring expertise, Canali showed a short film during its presentation called “Rewind” by director and screenwriter Ivan Cotroneo, in collaboration with award-winning director of photography Luca Bigazzi, from “The Great Beauty,” and with music written exclusively by Oscar-winning composer Dario Marianelli, from “Atonement.” The movie showed in reverse the procedures behind the construction of a jacket, starting from a customer opening a box containing the finished product. To be sure, the focus of the collection was on construction and fabrics, such as wool or cashmere, blended with silk, vicuña and chinchilla, or treated. Case in point: a cashmere field jacket finished with a sable effect. The design team played with Prince of Wales checks, madras or herringbone, overlapping and rotating the patterns, or creating optical effects — all in an earthy color palette with touches of purple. The jackets were deconstructed and relaxed, feeling like cardigans. Taking a cue from the Sixties, outerwear was at times oversize, while suits showed a more fitted look.
General manager Stefano Canali emphasized how the company was aiming to underscore its “founding values and roots.” Canali said that “as long as the company continues to deliver the values it is known for,” consumer loyalty does not fizzle out. “There’s more information about the labels, and customers double-check what the brands claim to be, so you must be consistent.” And that it was, as the collection felt of-the-moment without trying too hard, and delivered plenty of options for the core Canali customer as well as new ones.
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For the first time, after the presentation to retailers and press, the collection was shown to select fashion schools, with special workshops for students.